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September 14.2025
3 Minutes Read

Understanding Hurricane Swell Damage on the Outer Banks: A Survivor's Perspective

Hurricane Erin Outer Banks damage with waves and sandbags.

Witnessing Nature's Fury: Inside Hurricane Erin

Hurricanes are often depicted on screens, presenting dramatic visuals of their might. However, for those living in regions such as the Outer Banks, witnessing the tempest is a visceral experience that lives with them long after the storm passes. Pro surfer Brett Barley has intimately shared his experience of Hurricane Erin, offering audiences an on-the-ground look at both the chaos and resilience of those who call this barrier island home.

The Heart of the Outer Banks: A Community Under Siege

During Hurricane Erin, Barley found himself confronting the very element that sustains his passion for surfing—powerful waves and crashing surf. “Yeah, we got worked,” he candidly shared in his vlog. Life in the Outer Banks has always meant adapting to hurricanes, but environmental changes and policy decisions have left coastal residents largely without protection from the elements. Unlike other coastal areas, North Carolina’s ban on hardened structures like jetties keeps residents vulnerable to eroding shorelines.

Living with Nature's Forces: The Fragile Balance

The Outer Banks is unique, with its sandy structures being constantly molded by the relentless forces of nature. Barley's observations highlight the lengthy time since significant beach nourishment projects, with only two completed in the last fifty years. Residents face the reality of diminished coastal defenses and must accept their predicament: “If you live here, it’s just one of the things that you accept,” Barley notes. This acceptance is not a defeatist attitude, but rather a stance of commitment and love for the land.

Resilience on the Coast: Why They Stay

Despite the destruction, there is an undeniable beauty in the struggle. Barley expresses a deep connection to the land and the waves, stating, “The beauty of this place is worth enduring all of those storms. I’m never going anywhere.” This sentiment reverberates with many residents and is a powerful reminder of the emotional and psychological ties people have to their homes, despite the risks involved.

Environmental Impacts of Changing Climates

Hurricanes like Erin highlight broader issues related to climate change. Rising sea levels and increased storm activity represent challenges not only for the Outer Banks but for coastal communities worldwide. The vulnerability showcased by Barley is a microcosm of a global crisis where many regions face similar existential threats. Advocating for environmental protections and addressing climate change are crucial for the future viability of these coastal communities.

Sharing the Experience: Documenting Reality

Through his vlogs, Brett Barley transforms a personal experience into an educational platform. His documentation encourages viewers to empathize with his community’s plight while shining a spotlight on the environmental challenges facing coastal areas. By sharing his journey, he fosters awareness and opens the floor for discussions about sustainability and community resilience in the face of ever-increasing natural disasters.

Being part of the water sports community, we must recognize the dynamics at play here. Each of us has a role in spreading awareness and advocating for solutions that can protect this precious coastline. Stay informed and involved—consider the impacts of climate change in your own local environment.

Take action today. Participate in local coastal conservation efforts or support organizations advocating for sustainable practices. Every small step counts!

Water Sports

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12.15.2025

Big Wave Legends: Highlights from the Nazaré Challenge’s 60-Foot Waves

Update The Nazaré Challenge: A Thrilling Test of Courage This past December, the 2025-26 TUDOR Nazaré Challenge showcased the incredible talents of big wave surfers from around the world as they faced some of the largest waves seen at Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal. Surrounded by a lively audience of thousands, the event unfolded against a dramatic backdrop of 60-foot high waves, creating an electrifying atmosphere filled with anticipation and excitement. The competition, however, was not without its challenges. Fog delayed the start, and an unexpected power outage further complicated matters, leading the World Surf League (WSL) to halt the event after the first round. Despite these setbacks, the athletes showcased remarkable performances that underscored their dedication, skill, and resilience. Champions Emerge Amidst Chaos In a thrilling contest, Lucas Chianca from Brazil, secured the Men's Best Performance award with a two-wave score of 23.60. His nightmarish wipeout was a harrowing moment that revealed the dangers of big wave surfing. "That was a heavy moment for sure; one of the heaviest wipeouts of my life," Chianca confessed. Grateful for the swift rescue by his partner Sebastian Steudtner, he embraced the chaotic energy of the day while expressing his admiration for the waves. On the women's side, France's Justine Dupont continued to dominate by winning the Best Female Performance title for the second consecutive time, scoring 19.87. Her journey back to the podium was especially poignant, considering she returned to competitive surfing less than two years after becoming a mother. "It was a crazy day, and I’m so happy with the win," Dupont stated, reflecting the spirit of resilience that permeated the event. The Spirit of Teamwork Shines Teamwork played a crucial role in the Nazaré Challenge, with Nic von Rupp and Clement Roseyro clinching the Best Team Performance award for the second year running. Their synergy and understanding of the surf highlighted the importance of collaboration and camaraderie in extreme sports. Von Rupp noted, "Everyone is safe, happy day, you know,” emphasizing the bond formed on and off the waves. This strong sense of community extends beyond just team dynamics—it's about the entire surfing culture. As spectators cheered on their favorite athletes, it was clear that the Nazaré Challenge is more than just an event; it's a celebration of adventure, passion, and the human spirit's fierce drive to conquer nature's mightiest waves. Looking Ahead: The Future of Big Wave Surfing The experience at the Nazaré Challenge raises vital discussions about safety and sustainability in big wave surfing. Events such as these not only draw attention to the capacity of the human spirit to rise to great challenges but also highlight the risks that come with this beloved sport. Awareness and preparation for handling adverse weather conditions and potential equipment failures are critical, ensuring safety remains a priority. Moving forward, we can expect to see improvements in event organization and safety protocols, as well as a more significant emphasis on sustainability efforts among surfers and organizers alike. As the collaboration between surfers and environmental advocates continues to grow, we can hope for a future where the waves are honored and protected for generations of adventurers to come. Conclusion: Take the Plunge Whether you're an avid surfer or simply an enthusiast of adventure sports, the stories of bravery, teamwork, and triumph at the Nazaré Challenge serve as a rich tapestry of inspiration. If you've been considering diving into the world of big wave surfing or any water sport, now is the time to take the plunge. Embrace the thrill, respect the ocean, and know that every wave holds the possibility of a new adventure waiting just for you.

12.15.2025

Barron Mamiya's Unforgettable Performances and What They Mean for the Surfing Community

Update Barron Mamiya's Remarkable November at Pipeline Surfing fans were recently treated to an exhilarating showcase of big waves and even bigger skills, thanks to Barron Mamiya's incredible performances at Pipeline this past November. In the realm of competitive surfing, few can match Mamiya's prowess, and his latest highlights reel just before the 2025 Florence Pipe Pro has only solidified his reputation. Challenging Expectations with Confidence As competing surfers know, releasing a thrilling edit right before a contest can be a double-edged sword. Some argue that doing so exposes athletes to subconscious judgments from the panel of judges based on their previous successes rather than their current heat. However, Mamiya's December video served not only as a thrilling visual experience but as a testament to his confidence at Pipeline—whether it's the size or direction of the wave, this surfer handles them all with exceptional flair. His ability to fit seamlessly into the Pipeline's unique tubes positions him well for upcoming challenges, setting expectations sky-high for both himself and the judges. Highlighting Powerful Surfing Technique Mamiya's November highlights are a study in technique. With an impressive record that includes two Championship Tour victories and accolades like the Backdoor Shootout team winner, he demonstrates an effortless style that both inspires and excites. During this last month, he showcased his skills in numerous wave conditions at Pipeline and even made back-to-back finals at Sunset and Haleiwa. Witnessing him tackle hefty barrels and deliver exhilarating hacks is nothing short of mesmerizing. The Impact of Gear on Performance One element that contributed to Mamiya's phenomenal November is his choice of board. Riding the Channel Islands Goldie, a barrel-centric board designed specifically for navigating the toughest conditions, allows him to maximize his performance. It’s a reminder of how critical gear is in water sports, offering the right tools can elevate athletes' capabilities in challenging environments. Whether you are an aspiring surfer or a seasoned pro, understanding the importance of having the right equipment can translate to substantial differences in performance. Looking Ahead: The Road to the Florence Pipe Pro As the anticipation builds for the 2025 Florence Pipe Pro, many are eager to see how Mamiya's earlier performances will affect his gameplay. With the North Shore primed and ready, the surf community is buzzing with excitement. Will he continue to dominate as he has in recent months? Given his record and skills, many believe he has what it takes to bring home yet another title. Embracing the Surf Community What underlies Barron Mamiya's endeavors is the incredible support and shared passion within the surfing community. Fellow surfers, fans, and families relish these moments together, recognizing that each wave holds a story—a moment of triumph over nature that draws everyone closer. It's this communal spirit that elevates events like the Florence Pipe Pro as more than competitions; they become celebrations of life, nature, and the continuous pursuit of excellence. Final Thoughts: Riding the Waves Together Barron Mamiya’s November was indeed one for the books, and as we gear up for more thrilling surf competitions, let’s support our heroes and each other. Whether you’re watching from the beach or catching waves yourself, remember the thrill that accompanies this sport. Let's ride the waves together!

12.15.2025

Why Surfing the Gurgle Wave Could Be Your Next Adventure

Update Riding the Gurgle: A New Kind of Surfing Adventure Surfing is all about seeking thrills, and for the Florence brothers, that thrill came from riding an infamous wave known as the 'gurgle' at Ehukai Beach Park, right beside Hawaii’s Pipeline. Nathan and John John Florence, renowned for their fearless surfing style, embraced this so-called mutant sandbar wave, which, at first glance, appeared nearly impossible to ride. Yet, as both brothers share in their latest surfing adventures, there is nothing quite like the exhilaration of catching a wave that pushes the boundaries of traditional surfing. The Unpredictable Nature of the Gurgle Wave What makes the gurgle wave so unique? Unlike the picturesque, long-barreling waves typically sought after by surfers, the gurgle is all about unpredictability and chaos. Described as frothy, double-up waves, their ferocity turns them into both a challenging playground and brutal obstacle course. "It’s pure fun," Nate shared post-session, reflecting on the excitement of wipeouts that seem commonplace in this treacherous surf. He pointed out that while many might shy away from such conditions, experiencing the gurgle waves is ultimately what gets his adrenaline pumping. An Unlikely Surfing Community Forms At its core, the Florence brothers' love for the gurgle wave fosters a tight-knit community of adventurous surfers. Few venture into this chaotic surf, but for those who dare, there’s a camaraderie in shared wipeouts and laughter amidst the chaos. The thrill of standing shoulder to shoulder with friends at the gurgle bar illustrates the spirit of aloha that thrives in Hawaii. This wave isn’t just an individual challenge—it's about bonding with fellow surfers, learning from each fall, and cheering on one another’s successes. Lessons from the Gurgle: Embracing Challenges with Enthusiasm The Florence brothers epitomize a vital lesson for anyone passionate about water sports: sometimes, it’s the least conventional adventures that become the most memorable. Even as Nate described the numerous wipeouts, he emphasized the joy that comes from taking risks. It’s about going back out there, laugh in hand, ready to tackle what the ocean throws at you. These lessons resonate with young surfers and seasoned pros alike—they encourage all to seek the odd, embrace novelty, and enjoy the thrill of being on the water. The Future of Novelty Waves in Surfing Culture As waves like the gurgle become hotspots in surf culture, expect more surfers to follow in the Florence brothers’ footsteps. The unique stories that may come from these unconventional surf spots enrich the sport's tapestry. Although traditional surf spots will always hold their allure, novelty waves challenge surf culture to embrace variation and unpredictability. Who knows? Maybe the next viral surfing sensation will come from one of these sand-riddled monstrosities, just like the gurgle bar, inspiring countless adventurers to ride waves beyond their comfort zones. Why You Should Try Surfing the Gurgle For those considering venturing into surfing, why not seek out unique challenges? Following in the Florence brothers’ wake, embracing the gurgle experience opens up a world of adventure, camaraderie, and personal growth. So, grab your board, muster some courage, and dive into the wild waves that await. The thrill of the gurgle could very well lead to one of your most cherished beach memories! As we celebrate the Florence brothers’ bold surfing escapades, let their adventurous spirit inspire you! Whether you're a seasoned surfer or contemplating taking the plunge, remember: true joy comes from taking risks and riding the waves of life.

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